Link to full resolution Zoom.it image

Click here to view the video on YouTube.

Click here to view the video on YouTube.

The Star Party location is N 51d 1m 25s & W 2d 37m 48s altitude 49m.

The current weather forecast is looking reasonable for the week beginning the 19th of March and improving towards the end of the week, fingers crossed for a nice weekend. Details of last years SGL6 star party can be seen here

General information for the week (available as a PDF)

• Venus (mag -4) and Jupiter (mag -2) are setting before midnight
• Mars (mag -1) and Saturn (mag 0.3) rise in the East after sunset and set before sunrise. Mars reaches its max. altitude of 50° at 02:00 and Saturn reaching 30° @ 23:00 most of the week.
• Pluto (mag 14) is low to the South in the early hours, only reaching 15° above the horizon before a sunrise obscures it.
• Neptune (mag 8 ) is rising at sunrise with the Sun only 30° behind it.
• Mercury (mag 4.8) and Uranus (mag 6) are only just above the western horizon at sunset
• The ISS will be visible in the early hours of most mornings (03:00 to 05:30)
• The path of Comet C/2009 P1 (Garradd ) takes it below Bodes Galaxy during the Star party

Night to Night Information

Monday 19/03/12

Sunset(1) 18:22 @ 270 degrees

The Milky Way in the South west at 21:00 UTC

Tuesday 20/03/12

Sunrise(1) 06:12 @ 89 degrees

Sunset 18:24 @ 271 degrees

•  Spring Equinox. The Spring equinox occurs at 05:16 UTC. The Sun will shine directly on the equator and there will be nearly equal amounts of day and night throughout the world. This is also the first day of spring (vernal equinox).
• Mercury maybe visible on the western horizon after sunset.
• ISS Pass mag-0.8 04:48:33 10° S / 04:50:33 16° SE / 04:52:32 10° ESE

Uranus and Mercury @ 18:30 UTC

Wednesday 21/03/12

Sunrise 06:10 @ 88 degrees

Sunset 18:26 @ 272 degrees

• ISS Pass mag-2.2 05:26:16 10° SW / 05:29:17 38° SSE / 05:32:17 10° E
• Waning Crescent Moon (28.27 days old) @ 06:00 just over the eastern horizon before the sunrise @ 06:10. Because of the hills to the East this might not be visible.
• Mercury is in Inferior Conjunction (closest to the Sun) @ 19:23 (below the horizon)

Waning Crescent Moon (28.27 days old) @ 06:00

Thursday 22/03/12

Sunrise 06:07 @ 87 degrees

Sunset 18:27 @ 273 degrees

• New Moon. This phase occurs at 14:37 UTC.
• ISS Pass mag-1.6 04:30:56 18° S / 04:32:22 24° SSE / 04:35:02 10° E

Friday 23/03/12

Sunrise 06:05 @ 86 degrees

Sunset 18:29 @ 273 degrees

ISS Pass mag-0.7 03:36:07 14° SE / 03:36:07 14° SE / 03:37:23 10° ESE

• ISS Pass mag-3.0 05:08:28 13° SW / 05:11:10 56° SSE / 05:14:19 10° E
• The path of Comet C/2009 P1 (Garradd ) takes it below Bodes Galaxy during the Star party

Saturday 24/03/12

Sunrise 06:03 @ 86 degrees

Sunset 18:31 @ 274 degrees

1. 10:00 to 11:00 – Talk 1 – A Tail of Two Comets – Serendipity and Pro-Am collaborations by Nick Howes (NickH)
2. 11:00 – 13:00 – Bring and Buy / Meet the Admin
3. 13:00 to 14:00 – Talk 2 – A Night or Two on Mount Palomar – Creating colour images from the Palomar Sky Survey Plates by Dave Eagle (EaglesEye)
4. 14:15 to 14:45 – Scope tour by Helen
5. 15:00 to 16:00 – Talk 3 – Making Every Photon Count – All you need for deep sky astrophotography by Steve Richards (Steppenwolf)
6. 17:00 – Hog Roast
7. 19:00 to 19:30 – Night Sky Tour (if clear) by Ibbo !

• ISS Pass mag-2.4 04:13:33 33° S / 04:14:08 36° SSE / 04:17:07 10° E
• Io transit of Jupiter from 19:05 to 21:15 with the Red spot visible. Jupiter is about 20° above the Western horizon

Don’t forget British Summer Time starts @ 01:00 Sunday morning. Will this affect your computer clock?

Sunday 25/03/12

Sunrise 06:01 @ 85 degrees

Sunset 18:22 @ 275 degrees

• (2)ISS Pass mag-0.8 03:18:34 17° ESE / 03:18:34 17° ESE / 03:19:45 10° E. This pass will look like a short lived rocket going vertically down in the East.
• (2)ISS Pass mag-3.4 04:50:54 20° WSW / 04:52:59 76° SSE / 04:56:11 10° E. This pass is the highest and longest during the Star party.

Sunday (continued)

• A second picture opportunity with Venus, Jupiter and the Crescent Moon nicely positioned

Crescent Moon, Jupiter and Venus @ 20:22 UTC

Monday 26/03/12

Sunrise 04:59 BST @ 85 degrees

•  (2)ISS Pass mag-3.0 03:55:51 53° SSE / 03:55:52 53° SSE / 03:58:58 10° E

 Notes

• (1)Sun at 0 degrees altitude. Add or subtract 2 hours for the sun to be about 18° under the horizon.
• (2)ISS pass times are in UTC.

Taken with a Canon 7D and Canon 580ExII flashguns

In the UK the product will be branded under the name Timestopper with the up coming water droplet control system called the SplashArt Controller.

My immediate thought when I started writing this was what to call the device?

a PhotoTrigger, PhotoTrigger! or Photo-Trigger!, well in the UK it will be called the Timestopper and the SplashArt Controller.

my second thought was what do you get in the box? and the answer is quite a lot:

• The Photo-Trigger! module
• A Sound Sensor
• A Light Sensor
• A Laser Module
• A Flash hot shoe and cable
• A cable to connect the Photo-Trigger! to the camera with a male/female extension lead
• and an A4 manual stapled together
• BUT you have to supply your own AA batteries (x2)

The box arrived very promptly from the supplier and was well wrapped with all the items in the box bagged and bubble wrapped so there shouldn’t be any postal problems.

The full functionality of the Photo-Trigger! can be seen on the www.phototrigger.com website and the manual can be downloaded from here. In the near future there will also be a water droplet system available to allow the capture of water droplet collisions.

The first thing to do was to take a few pictures of the Photo-Trigger! module to include in this review so after finding a couple of AA batteries the module was fired up. It is very apparent that the Photo-Trigger! is being produced manually in low volume runs rather than mass produced. There is some minor misalignment of the LED display and power on/off switch and the layout of sockets on the top of the module are not aligned with each other, their position being defined by the sockets used on the internal PCB. The other obvious omission is labels for the buttons and sockets BUT with only 3 buttons it is very simple to operate. I would of like to see some effort to waterproof the gaps around the LCD with a touch of silicon as I wouldn’t like to leave the module outside on a wet or humid night without some additional protection.

The Photo-Trigger! module is surprisingly small and lightweight, there should be no excuse for not slipping it into a camera bag pocket. The overall size is 100mm high x 75mm wide and 25mm deep and it fits nicely in the palm of your hand.

The front of the Photo-Trigger! module has a backlit 2 x 16 LCD display, 3 push buttons and a sliding on/off switch. The Central button selects the Menu option with the Left and Right buttons being used to adjust the option parameters; a very simple and quick menu system that is easy to get to grips with but without compromising on the power and versatility of the system (except timing adjustments, see my note later).

The LCD backlit can be turned on or off and a fairly quiet keypress buzzer can also be turned on/off via the menu settings.

The top of the Photo-Trigger! module has the sockets to connect your camera, an external flashgun, the light/sound sensors and laser.

The camera socket takes a 2.5mm stereo jack, the light/sound sensor socket takes a 3.5mm stereo jack, the laser socket is a small diameter DC power socket with the flash socket being a larger diameter DC power socket.

This is an interesting choice of sockets to use as the DC power socket is typically used as a power supply input not an output. It’s important to realise that this device does not have the option for an external power supply so you are reliant on the installed 2 x AA batteries.

First attempt with the intervalometer – 1200 images captured at 10 second intervals. Setting the Photo-Trigger! up for this could not of been easier and only took a few seconds of button pushing.

Click here to view the video on YouTube.

Playing with the Light Trigger -

I’ll say this up front because it really caused me some frustration until I realised what was happening.

It is worth noting that when setting the trigger delay you are initially adjusting the delay to the nearest microsecond, it is not until you start incrementing the 4th digit that you are changing the delay in milliseconds. For most applications the nearest millisecond is precise enough so get used to using the central button to increase the rate change of the settings. In a typical water droplet setup it takes 250-300mS for a droplet to fall 600mm (2 feet).

The formatting of the Trigger Delay setting is 00:00:000:000 microseconds which is slightly confusing but I think it is MM:SS.ssssss ?? this gives us the resolution of one microsecond.

Using this light beam set up with the laser diode and light sensor gives the user the opportunity to very accurately react to an event i.e the light beam being broken and then take an image after a precise delay, down to a microsecond. During the setup I noticed that the leads for the diode and light sensor are fairly short, extension leads would be needed for any field work.

For this review the Photo-Trigger! was used to control the camera shutter and the camera left to control the flashguns using a wireless link. In practise this method works fine but for the best control of the system the flashguns should be hard wired to the Photo-Trigger! to remove any synchronisation issues with the wireless link.

My own electronic droplet system was used to provide the water droplets to break the Photo-Trigger! light beam for the droplet images. A simple pipette or eye dropper would also be fine for releasing single droplets or attempting droplet collisions in a more haphazard way.

When Binary Logic release their water droplet system, the Splashart controller, all of the functions will be available in one system. This system will allow the capture of droplet collisions which requires the controlled release of multiple droplets.

• To get the best precision it is necessary to use the Bulb mode of the Photo-trigger!, this removes the mechanical delays and inaccuracies caused by the mirror lifting, the aperture closing to the defined setting and the shutter curtain exposing the sensor and firing the flash.
• In Normal mode the Photo-trigger! can control the camera and will allow the camera to fire the flash or the Photo-trigger! can control the camera and flash for more timing accuracy.
• A third mode called Mirror Lock Up improves the accuracy and reduces the shutter lag by lifting the Mirror and then waiting for the trigger event, this mode is probably the best mode to use unless you can completely black out your work area to use Bulb mode.

The sensitivity of the trigger beam can be adjusted using a very nice bar graph on the LCD display which shows the current level and the trigger level. This allows the user to adjust the trigger level depending on the ambient conditions and the photographic set up.

One quirk of the system is that in order to adjust the trigger delay you need to go up the menu structure until you get to Options and then go down the Options structure until the Trigger delay setting is found. Make the adjustment and then navigate all the way back up and down again to the Light Trigger Start. This is very time consuming and after 10-20 adjustments it really does get boring.

It seems to me that when the Light Trigger is in the ‘armed’ mode it should be possible for the user to increase or decrease the trigger delay using the left and right buttons with the central button being the trigger abort or rate change with some minimal reprogramming.

One interesting feature of the Photo-Trigger! is the ability to incrementally increase the Trigger delay time by a small amount between images using the Trigger delay delta function. This allow the user to create an animated timelapse of a repeatable event like a water droplet. A typical animation can be viewed here (1.8Mb avi file) shot with a Trigger delay delta of 5 milliseconds between images

My camera bag now has a new gadget inside it which will get a lot of use out in the field as well as in the studio.

…..to be continued

update to include interface information for new sensors

It is possible to use a micro switch instead of sensors.
In this case you will have zero<->full values only of course.

The jack plug is as follows:
TIP: 5 volts power supply from trigger
RING: feedback signal to trigger (input)
SLEEVE: GROUND (0V)

So to add microswitch you will have to make something like this:

TIP —- microswitch —- RING —- resistor —- SLEEVE

The resistor should be more than 1k ohm. I would suggest 10k ohm.
Be sure not to short circuit TIP with the SLEEVE!

After processing all of the images have had their levels adjusted to that the image is fully stretched with no midpoint adjustment and no image data clipped. It should be noted that the final images have not been produced to make them ‘pretty’ they are purely for the comparison of the wavelet/deconvolution options available. To improve the visual appearance of the final image a mid point adjustment and an unsharp mask is applied, as shown in the final image.

The original 30 second video (15fps) was captured with the DMK41 mounted to a PST Stage 1 modified Lyra Optic 4″ f/11 refractor, seeing conditions was no more than average with the sun very low over the surrounding rooftops.

The images below show various treatments applied to the single stacked FITS image produced by Registax v6 after alignment of the video frames.

This is the single stacked image straight from Registax v6. If you want to play with the original FITS file it can be downloaded here

The next three images show the stacked image with Registax v6 wavelets applied in 3 levels of aggression.

The next image shows the Registax v6 stacked image processed in PixInsight to remove the vignetting on the right hand side of the original image. The vignetting was removed by using the Dynamic Background Extraction (DBE) in PixInsight.

The image below is the DBE processed image with the PixInsight deconvolution function applied.

A levels mid point adjustment is now applied to lighten the image and a touch of unsharp mask to tighten up the edges.

Other adjustments could be made to visually improve the image like curves adjustment and colourising.

With the expert help of -the solar imagers on Stargazers Lounge (SGL), including Merlin66 and JohninDerby,  this post covers the journey of one Coronado PST solarscope as it is converted into an 1100mm f/11 solar imaging system using a Lyra Optic 4″ f/11 refractor telescope. The standard PST has a focal length of 400mm and an aperture of f/10 and is very capable of taking excellent images like the one below but we always want more.

The Stage 1 modification allows the PST black box to be used in the back of a larger telescope by the addition of a nose piece to the PST and the fitting of an Energy Rejection Filter (ERF) on the front of the telescope. The nose piece needs to be anodised and then lined with 0.020″ Protostar Flockboard to minimise any internal reflections. This simple Stage 1 modification will allow me to check the amount of telescope tube I need to remove in order to place the etalon 200mm inside the prime focus of the telescope.

The Stage 2 modification will replace the PST black box with a helical focuser and Coronado BF-15 blocking filter.

The heart of the PST system is the Fabry-Perot Etalon. The PST can tune the filter by the rotation of the “tilting” element, an aluminum grid covered in textured rubber. This way it is possible to tune the filter onto the “correct” frequency, and mechanically the effect is that of translating one of the two filter components, and to compress or relax the orange elastic seal in between the two filters.

The next step will be to calculate the optimum position of the PST etalon relative to the objective lens of the Lyra Optic telescope

….. to be continued

01/11/11
The Baader D-ERF has arrived and I collected the Lyra Optic 4″ f11 refractor telescope today. The Lyra Optic scope is almost too pretty to cut up but it is being sacrificed for a good cause and the very smooth high quality dual speed crayford focuser will be refitted the back of the scope during the conversion. A Celestron CG5-GT mount is due to be delivered tomorrow, more toys to play with

02/12/11
I decided to return the Baader 75mm D-ERF which was going to be installed internally and I’ve ordered the Baader 110mm D-ERF from Teleskop-Service so I can make up a D-ERF cell that will simply fit on the end of the Lyra Optic telescope. This will give me the full 4″ aperture and remove any issues with thermal currents that an internal ERF may of caused.

The Celestron CG5-GT mount also arrived today, if the weather is ok tomorrow I’ll take a few pictures of the scope and mount.

03/12/11
The BF-15 blocking filter arrived from HandsOnOptics (LP = 80mm)

04/12/11
The Lyra Optic 4″ f/11 refractor telescope

05/12/11
A little bit of the sun playing hide and seek with the clouds allowed me to measure the optimum cutting distance on the scope tube. With the focuser drawtube at 15mm it looks like I need to remove 75mm of tube to put the front of the etalon ‘rubber band’ 200mm inside the focal point of the objective lens.

06/12/11
Superb service from Teleskop-Service saw the replacement Baader 110mm D-ERF arrive today

The Lyra Optic scope tube is in workshop being chopped down and re-threaded, and a 4″ male to male adaptor is being made to allow me to restore the telescope back to its original length. Things are moving along very nicely for the Stage 1 modification, my thanks go to BICO Engineering for their support.

I still need to source the Helical focuser and extension tubes for the Stage 2 modification.

07/12/11
The Borg Helical Focuser M – M68.8 – Part #7835 has been located and ordered from Hutech in the States, this was the main piece missing for the Stage 2 modification. (LP = 63-83mm)

Borg Helical Focuser M - M68.8 - Part #7835

14/12/11
The Lyra optic refractor came back from the workshop today with the modifications complete.

The modified Lyra Optic refractor with the 4″ diameter 75mm long extension tube made from the cutoff section of scope tube

The 4″ diameter 75mm long extension tube made from the cutoff section of scope tube

The 4″ diameter x 1mm pitch male to male adaptor piece.

16/12/11
Teleskop-Service excelled again with a very fast delivery of the TS 8×50 right angle finder scope from Germany

Modified Lyra Optic 4″ f/11 refractor telescope with Teleskop-Service 8×50 right angle finder scope fitted with a Baader solar film cap to act as a sunfinder.

The Borg Helical Focuser M – M68.8 – Part #7835 also arrived today from Hutech in the USA. A beautifully engineered helical focuser that has a remarkably smooth and precise focusing adjustment.

Focuser details

• Index Marks – 80 microns
• Length – 63 to 82 mm (19 mm travel)
• Weight – 320 g
• Front interface – M68.8 P0.75 Male
• Rear interface – M60 P0.75 Male, M57 P0.75 Female

A few adaptors to acquired and machine in the new year and the Stage 2 PST modification will be complete.

Borg adaptors#7522 (LP=12mm) and #7317 (LP=24mm) will convert the rear of the focuser into a 1.25″ EP holder.

Borg #7522 - M57 to M36.4 /M42p0.75 T-thread Adapter

Borg #7317- 1.25" eyepiece holder

and modifying the Borg SCT to Helical Focuser M/T Adapter – Part #7428 (LP = 29mm) will give me the adaptor for connecting the helical focuser to the PST Etalon.

Borg #7428 - SCT to Helical Focuser M/T Adapter

These extra Borg components have been ordered from www.hutech.com so they should be with me in the new year.

17/12/11
First Light

The image above was taken using a DMK41 CCD without the 2.5x Powermate.

The images below are with the 2.5x Powermate

18/12/11
During First Light yesterday I noticed that my normal tuning position of the etalon, which is typically about 5mm from the travel end stop, had shifted slightly and I was having to put the tuning ring right against the travel end stop for the imaging. As I wasn’t totally sure that I had reached the optimum tuning position I opted to reset the travel end stop of the PST etalon. I moved the end stop by 2 holes and then tried some imaging today and sure enough I wasn’t quite tuned correctly yesterday and todays images are an improvement.

<———————————————– 343,000 kilometers ————————————————–>

I also did some magnification and resolution calculations.

The Lyra Optic 4″ f/11 has an 1100mm focal length and using the DMK41 CCD camera I am achieving the following fields of view (FoV) when imaging the sun which has a subtended angle of 0.52 degrees.

• Without a 2.5x Powermate the FoV is 0.32 x 0.24 degrees
• With a 2.5x Powermate the FoV is 0.13 x 0.10 degrees

Given that the sun diameter is 1,392,000 kilometers this means that at the maximum magnification with the Powermate my horizontal field of view is 343,000 kilometers. Putting this in perspective in the high magnification image above I could put about 27 Earths, which has a diameter of  12,756 km, across the image!

Dawes Limit: The theoretical Dawes limit for a 4″ telescope is 1.14 arcsecs so:

• Using the DMK41 without the 2.5X Powermate I get 0.85 arcsec/pixel
• Using the DMK41 with the 2.5X Powermate I get 0.34 arcsec/pixel

The atmospheric turbulence typically limits resolution to 1-2 arcsecs.

The Baader D-ERF needs to be securely mounted to the front of the Lyra Optic refractor telescope and needs to be manufactured. If it comes off then either the camera or my eyes are at risk.

The Baader D-ERF will have nitrile o-rings around the sides and top and bottom to act as shock absorbers and allow some movement of the filter so it can be tilted to avoid any ghost reflections.

23/12/11
A quick play, in white light, with the Lyra Optic 4″ f/11 refractor fitted with a DMK41 and 2.5x Powermate to image Jupiter. I used a 80mm 2″ extension tube and Williams Optics Dielectric diagonal to achieve focus rather than fitting the specially manufactured 4″ extension tube.

04/01/12

The D-ERF lens cell has been completed, it was made from Tufnol in the end as I couldn’t locate any 150mm diameter aluminium bar stock. The Borg components have arrived but are currently going through the UK customs system. One final piece will need to be manufactured, this piece will allow the Borg #7428 – SCT to Helical Focuser M/T Adapter to be connected to the rear of the PST Etalon.

05/01/12

Trial fit of the BF-15 blocking filter, the Borg focuser and adaptors and the PST Etalon with 2″ nose piece.

The front Borg adaptor has a SCT thread (2″ x 24 tpi) on the scope end which I need to remove and replace with a M50 x1P thread to connect to the PST Etalon. At the moment the working distance from the front of the BF-15 housing to the front of the PST Etalon knurled ring is 145mm when the focuser is at 10mm i.e. mid travel.

I think when I modify the Borg adaptor I’ll shorten it another 5-10mm as it will be easier to make the optical path longer but more difficult to shorten it.

11/01/12
All of the machining is now completed and all the optics have been cleaned off ready for ‘first light’ with the PST Stage 2 modified Lyra Optic 4″ f/11 refractor. Hopefully the weather will be good this weekend ! The SCT adaptor was machined out to remove the 2″ x 24tpi thread and an aluminium bush press fitted into the recess, this bush was then threaded with a female M50 x 1p thread to fit the rear of the PST etalon.

13/01/12

PST Stage 2 – First Light

The following images are taken with the PST Stage 2 modification, the system still needs tweaking but I’m pleased with the first light images considering the high hazy cloud. With the components I’ve use the system comes to focus using a DMK41 ccd camera with the Borg focuser at 8mm, very close to the midpoint of the 19mm of travel so I’m pleased with the adjustment I have.

30/01/12
I’ve just taken delivery of a Skywatcher N-EQ6 Pro syntrek mount and Hitec EQMod adaptor to stiffen up the telescope and mount to improve the image quality. I’ve also started a small project to remote control the focus on the telescope to remove any vibration issues.

03/02/2012
On the advice of the more experienced Solar imagers I’ve removed the mini-ERF from the front (scope side) of the Coronado BF-15 blocking filter diagonal. This should reduce some ghosting which is apparent where the light is hitting one glass surface and bouncing back onto another surface in the optical path. A benefit of controlling the ghost problem is the increase in contrast which will improve the image quality.

The 3M HTD pulleys and belts have also arrived to finish off the remote focusing project which will be driven using a Hitec DcFocuser and Skywatcher focus motor controlled with the Ascom drivers.

It’s important to say that the PST Solarscope is completely unmodified by this addition.

Click here to view the video on YouTube.

I’ve mounted the Coronado PST Solarscope in an aluminium channel primarily so I can have the skywatcher dovetail on the side of the PST Solarscope. This allows the eye piece tube and CCD camera to be positioned above the solarscope rather than hanging off sideways during normal use on an Skywatcher EQ3 Synscan Pro mount.

The aluminium channel is then used to provide a mounting location for the Orion Accufocus motor system to avoid any damage to the PST. The gearing is 1 : 1 and is made from a Como/MFA multi ratio gear kit. The adaptor shafts to connect the gears to the motor and the PST focus knob have been machined up to suit the various diameters and small grub screws are used to lock the adaptors onto the motor and PST focus knob.

The Lee big stopper ND filter is a high quality neutral density (ND) filter which provides 10 stops of light attenuation. To put this into perspective most ND filters only have between 1 and 3 stops of light attenuation.

A typical photograph, taken in full sun without a filter, might have an exposure of 1/60 second @ f16 iso 100. With the filter installed on the lens to get the same photograph the exposure would need to be 15 seconds @ f16 iso 100. If you photograph a stream in a shaded woodland, without the filter the shutter speed might be 1 second @ f16, with the Lee big stopper filter the shutter speed would be 15 minutes ! yes, that’s not a typo the exposure would be 15 minutes @ f16 iso 100.

The extreme increase in shutter speed means that the photograph will contain a lot of motion blur, the water will turn to a silky smooth finish and you get some blurring of the foliage unless there is zero wind which is very rare. It also means your tripod needs to be rock solid and a cable release is essential to get a really sharp photograph. I would also recommend turning off long exposure noise reduction in the camera unless you want to wait for the dark frame to be processed.

This example shows the difference between a photograph taken at 1/50 second and one taken at 15 minutes.

(hover your mouse over the image to see the long exposure version)

One thing to note about the filter is the slight colour cast it produces, this colour cast can easily be removed in Photoshop or by using a custom white balance in the camera. Personally I like the colour cast as it gives photographs a slightly old feeling to them.

Click here to view the video on YouTube.

A few more images taken during the same session using exposures between 10 and 20 minutes.

and finally an HDR image taken with 5 minute, 10 minute and 20 minute exposures